Sunday, September 14, 2014

10.St Hilaire du Harcouet > Le Mont St Michel

We were excited and full of emotions on our final day. This would be the last push to Mont St Michel. Would it be difficult? Climactic? Sad to end the trip? We had learned and enjoyed much of France and, more importantly, of each other during these past 10 days. Truly, we felt blessed to be on this journey. 


After coffee and Croque Monsieur we tightened down our straps and prepared to set off, with mixed feelings once again, reminiscent of the sweet sorrow we felt when leaving the kids at home more than 10 days ago. 


We were not disappointed throughout the day. While it is difficult to choose our favourite day of riding, today would prove one most memorable and a fitting conclusion to the Veloscenic. We left St Hilaire du Harcouet, following our GPS towards the Voie Verte.  


The first section was similar to the previous days, as we passed over roads and under motorways. However much of today was flat and downhill - a great feeling after 10 days of continuous riding!


This part of the Voie Verte is still the old railway lining. Many of the old buildings along the railway line have been bought and refurbished as homes, some even retaining the historic names of the stations! We saw patios, tended gardens, and couples eating their meals in their dining room as we rolled by. 



Possibly being a Sunday and also as we were nearing more populated areas, there were a lot more people - more than we had every seen on the Voie Verte. One group was doing a morning run at strong pace. 


And a large family had just unloaded all their bikes from their cars and campervan and were preparing to set off.


We sped down autumnal tracks, leaving green and golden leaves behind us. 


A pair of ponies were grazing with such gusto, as if they had been riding all day. Their tails swished and their manes bristled as they raised their heads to glance at us before turning back to their brunch. 


At many points our cycling track ran parallel to the road. Families with children and cycle tourists would be on the Voie Verte, while a few roadies passed us along the tarmac, making me wonder what it would be like riding my road recumbent in Normandy. 


One tended garden had the most beautiful pumpkins in various colours, nestled in the ground. Try as we might, I could not get the right angle to capture all the pumpkins with the lovely house in the background. 


We came to the town of Ducey, and were hoping for an early lunch but the Moules Frite would only surface at noon, another 45 minutes, so we continued on. 


So many towns we pass have gorgeous chateaus, big and small. Ducey had a medium sized one right opposite a park in the centre of town. 


The riverbank along this park was gathering strength. Our route was approximating its course, and soon it would empty into the bay that preceded Le Mont St Michel. 


We passed many families on their Sunday outing, but no cycle tourists yet. So far, we were the only ones who had ridden from Paris!


The bridge crossed the stream, taking us closer and closer towards the Mont.  


A flock of birds dotted the sky, cheering us onward through green meadows and cornfields. 


An orphaned railway bridge testified that this Voie Verte was indeed a disused train line. The classic structure was beautifully retained amongst the greenery.


Underneath, signage towards our destination urged us forward. 


We took our time however, as the valley preceding Pontaunault was truly gorgeous!


At Pontabault we opted to buy lunch from an award winning bakery that specialized in the largest brioche we had ever seen!


Stowed in our bags, our purchases became a wonderful picnic by the river just one minute down the road. 


Energized and excited after lunch, we sped up and down easy rolling hills until we glimpsed our very first sighting of Le Mont St Michel in the far distance. 


Ecstatic at our impending success, we pedaled onward. Each time the Mont appeared behind trees, it would be a little larger. 


The Veloscenic detoured us slightly up a hill through Huisnes sur Mer, upon which you can see an elevated view of the Mont, it's features now appearing. 


Our Bromptons had come so far, that they too paused to enjoy the view of the Mont. 


A fast downhill brought us to a farmhouse with the curious name of Rome, reminding us of our honeymoon destination 10 years ago!


The final few kilometers towards the Mont were filled with families enjoying the park, riding with trailers, and enjoying a picnic. 


We stopped for a crepe and coffee, and my Brompton S2L-X posed before the Mont, feeling very satisfied that he could come all the way from Paris without a problem.


We came to the Place du Barrage, reminding us of our own Marina Barrage. While Singapore's Marina Barrage functions to separate Marina Bay from the ocean as a freshwater reservoir, the Place du Barrage functions to keep silt from flowing out to the Mont. In this manner the Mont is regaining it's maritime character as separate from the mainland. 


We parked our bikes in a secure bike locker at the Visitors Centre and took a bus to the Mont as encouraged on the website. 


We did it! We made it through 10 years of marriage, growing in love and appreciation of one another, and we made it through 10 days of challenging and enjoyable cycling. We crossed 450km from Paris to Le Mont St Michel! But we still had more steps to climb to reach that abbey in the sky!


More to come...including Ivan's midnight outing to get his bike and cycle back to the Mont!

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