We departed from our Isle of Englishness immediately after a good breakfast. It was strange to be with 5 English couples in the middle of rural France, but it was nice to speak our own language for a change! We also left with a new appreciation for the English, and greater understanding of the tensions between Scotland and England!
The long driveway from Belle Vallee was steep with gravel so we walked our way up and surveyed the surrounding country before setting off to the centre of Domfront just a few kilometers away.
Domfront was known to be a medieval town, and we just love medieval towns! This beauty was no exception. An old RV was parked right next to a cafe near the town centre! This popular means of camping was the first of many we would see today.
A narrow cobblestone street looped around the town centre like an elongated ellipse.
We peered down some very steep side streets and the quaint architecture overlooking them.
The church was reputed to be unique as it was an early 20th century church built in a much older style, so we made sure we found it and went inside for a look.
Externally it was an unusually square shape, due to compactness of the available land. Later, we would learn that this design was typical of the Byzantine era and when this church was rebuilt in the relatively modern early 20th century, this style was choose to maximize the small plot of land. The interior was devoid of pillars, providing an expansive space which Christ in the wall mural gazed upon.
The church had the cutest egg shaped baptismal font!
A poster showed the church being consecrated in 1933, making it 81 years old this year. My church in Singapore just celebrated our 50th anniversary - but our building is much newer!
After service on a Sunday morning you would walk down the steps of the church and see this view!
Continuing in Domfront we found another lovely stop and though it was too early in our ride to stop for a break, we stopped for a coffee anyway at the red shop behind us.
One cafe and one tea later, with lots of admiration of the town we departed.
The road out of Domfront was a very steep downhill. Veloscenic noted this yet graded this section "Family" - due to this steep section and parts that came later I feel this section should be "Intermediate." It was best to see a road sign that said Le Mont St M. - our final destination!
Soon we were back on the Voie Verte on a 12 deg C morning. The weather was invigorating but we were feeling a little tired from all the cycling!
On some sections, lots of leaves on the ground gave a foretaste of the autumn that would soon arrive.
Wide open spaces alternated with tree lined paths.
We passed under many stone bridges with beautiful arches.
We ourselves crossed over numerous streams. To be more precise it was was one stream that meandered alongside us, crossing under the Voie Verte from left to right and back again.
Several old rail stations marked our progress, as this cycle track was built over a disused railway line. Perhaps one day soon our own Rail Corridor in Singapore could be like this! Bukit Timah Railway station could be one of these historic buildings!
This almost aerial shot feels like it could be from a low flying drone, but it's from my high flying selfie stick!
We had planned to go into Mortain for lunch and a side excursion to this town was recommended by Veloscenie. I was surprised then that this "family" rated section had a very long steep descent then ascent into Mortain, the town in the distance in the photograph below. It was beautiful but too tough after 9 days of riding, so we walked the last 400m up the 10% grade.
We had been looking forward to a hot lunch, perhaps a kebab sandwich with chips. We were not disappointed and found exactly what we wanted! The French kebabs are served in a bread and a huge serving of fries - great for cyclists!
Back on the cycle route, clear blue skies bathed us in warmth as we went down and up the hill again. As we looked back at Mortain, Renata was amazed she had been up and down that hill - something she could not have imagined before this cycling trip. "That was a costly kebab and fries!" she joked. If I had known that Mortain was up such a steep descent I would have foregone the lunch excursion and continued along the Voie Verte direct to St Hilaire du Harcouet. However, leaving from Domfront one would have to pack food as there is no good along the way without the detour into Mortain. I think Veloscenie should tell cyclists of the steep grade to Mortain as this route is rated "family" and the cycle tourist would not expect it.
Twelve kilometers after Domfront we were into Saint Hilaire du Harcouet. A rolling hill was now a non-issue for Renata! We enjoyed a cafe stop before checking into our hotel.
Le Cygne was well rated for fine French food but it was full so we walked outside and found another small restaurant that advertised their seasonal speciality, moules frite - mussels and fries. We went inside and ordered the mussels, escargots and fish to share. The "simple" food was fantastic.
The mussels came in a large put which we shared as an entree. The local cider complemented it very well!
We wanted to try the meringue flambé for dessert but were just too stuffed! So after dinner we waddled on a short walk through the town and back to our hotel to rest well before for our last push to Le Mont St Michel.
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