Saturday, September 13, 2014

8. Orgeres La Roche > Domfront

We woke up late after the hard work yesterday, and enjoyed a delightful breakfast with more fresh fruit jams and bread varieties than I could imagine! Fueled and ready to go we said goodbye to Jean-Michel and his lovely home. By the time our lazy morning turned into our bike ride the clock read 11am. 



Immediately we found ourselves along an unpaved dirt path. It was the kind of track that horses took, not 16" wheeled bikes. But the Bromptons were fine on this section. We just walked the paths with larger rocks and muddy bits. 



It was nice to get back on asphalt though. As we rode, I handed Renata the selfie-stick for her to have a go at the shutter. Finally I get one picture of me riding from the back!


We passed this amazing house in the countryside. I wonder what's it like to live in there!


The next tiny town had a beautiful church. The bells struck 12 noon just as I cycled past, giving me a bit of a shock!


The beautiful blue doors complemented the azure sky! Noticing the doors were open, we parked our bikes outside and took a peek!


The altar, decorations and pews were lovely, and it looked like they had services here occasionally. 



Continuing along we saw a sign that said "Hot Springs 800m." Thinking it was with an attempt to see if we could soak our feet in a wild hot spring, we took a chance. A second sign pointed down a dirt track so we laid down our bikes and took a stroll. 



Unfortunately it got too thick and muddy 50m in, so we gave up and turned back!



This section was grades "intermediate" but we hadn't gained all our energy back from yesterday's tough ride so we took easy. Poor Renata struggled up some of the hills but we always laughed and she never complained! She said he thinks her thighs feel bigger after all these hills. I noticed I could push myself seated up the 7-8% grade on my 57 gear inches - something which I don't think I could do before! So the muscles felt tired but the strength and technique were improving!



Soon, the woods became tamed paths with trimmed hedges. We were approaching Bagnoles de l'Orne. 


We knew this was going to be rich town known for it's Belle Époque way of life - following the aristocrats of the early 20th century. The town was indeed lovely!


The time was past 1:11pm, and we were afraid of missing lunch. The first restaurant looks very classy and had a number of food awards. Though clearly more up-market than most of the establishments we were visiting, the set menu was a 25 euro and I felt Renata deserved a great after all her hard work. 



Patrons and service staff stared at us as we folded our bikes and brought our bags inside! Clearly they don't get many bike tourists in this restaurant. We were also the youngest ones in there by two decades! While most plat du jours cost 15-18 euro for three courses, here's what you get at a premium place for 25 euro...first, layers of smoked beef and pate of foie gras for the entree. 


For the plat, a perfectly seared and succulent duck breast, tender pink on the inside!


And a chocolate fondant, with molten dark chocolate on the inside. Only lightly  sweet with an accompanying sorbet. 


We must have been a kilogram heavier when we left! Just down the street, the roundabout encircled a spouting fountain and cafés and restaurants were all around. 


The Veloscenic route took us through the town and into the park. This stunning area really marked Bagnoles de l'Orne as a holiday town for the wealthy! I took a panaromic picture for this beautiful garden. 


We relaxed on the grass by the water and didn't want to get up!



When we finally continued on our route, we were guided to cross the bridge decked with flowers on the right of the panoramic picture. 


As we headed out of town we passed a golf course (many people playing), a retirement village, and an equestrian centre! Then we were back in the countryside, with a few 5-7% hills to conquer along the way. One short steep section went up to 12%, showing us once again how Singapore is as flat as a pancake!


After a brief rest stop, we proceeded along and I saw a pack of riders regrouping in front me. I greeted them and stopped just after them. They were a group of school kids on mountain bikes with their teacher leading them!


I was the first one past the motley pack. They gawked curiously at my tiny wheeled bike with luggage. Look, there comes another one! Renata slid by with a "Bonjour!" 


As we set off, they did too with their teacher in front. "Ecole?" I asked him. "Oui, Domfront," was the reply I comprehended, and we sped back down to Domfront!


Renata and I turned off to find our B&B. The mapping I had done was accurate, and led us right to Belle Vallee. 


The front of the house as viewed from the sitting area in the lawn was just as in the photos. Several couples were having their afternoon tea! I found the hostess, Victoria, and greeted everyone with the usual round of bonjours, but the replies came back with English accents! Turns that the owners and all the guests that day were from the UK. That evening was a speak English day, furthermore it was "Speak Good English" day as everyone was well educated and well informed! After dinner, cheese and lemon tart, we retired to the sitting room for coffee and tea! How very civilized I felt - anthropologicaly the term is incorrect but that is still how I felt! The grounds and interior of this B&B are extremely welcoming. It wasn't cold enough for the fireplace to be on it Victoria had placed lit candles in one and Christmas lights in the other! Smart and clever!


Off to bed! Today was still tiring for Renata but hopefully the shorter 36km ride today will place her in good stead for tomorrow. Just 2 more days to Le Mont St Michel!


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