Our day started early, all packed up including yoghurt, strawberries and grapes that we had bought at the supermarket last night, perched on top of my T-bag.
We found great coffee, bought a croissant and cookie next door and laid out our fruits. What I didn't know about France was bars/tabacs serve coffee and no food. They don't mind you bringing our own and buying your pastries next door. No such thing as "no outside food" signs here. Everyone neatly packs up your own mess afterwards!
We said farewell to the town square we had stayed in and set off for our 55km ride today.
The outskirts of every town seem to have stunning streams, flanked by picturesque buildings that have been conserved - without painting them bright yellow or green like we do in Singapore.
The road out was undulating 2-5% grades that were not difficult at a relaxed pace. We alternated through forest and open meadows. The corn harvest fields seem have been left behind from precious days.
This would prove to be a day of appreciating the nature around us. I don't know what type of fruit or berries these are but they were especially beautiful growing wild.
Then Renata spotted some wild mint growing by the roadside. She harvested some for our next tea break.
A little town had a beautiful church that dominated the intersection.
The verdant grass was so lush that my Brompton took a short nap!
Just as we were about to leave, who pulled up but Peter and Ellie, the elderly English couple from earlier in the tour. We had actually stayed in the same hotels for 3 nights but today we would go further than them so this would be the last day we would see them.
The time was mid-morning so we detoured into town for a cafe snack!
Once again we bought our pastries next door, laid out the last of my yoghurt and strawberries. Renata infused her tea with the freshly plucked mint leaves from earlier, while I downed one flat white (cafe creme) and one espresso (cafe).
A female French cyclist came by and asked for directions to get back to the Veloscenic! I managed to communicate, "Go this way and turn right to the Voie-Verte" in my pidgeon French. This is now the third time I have been asked advice by French fold who assume I am local. Must be something about being on a bike with luggage, so I am very pleased with my blending in to the Normandy region! One more thing - to be a considerate local, pack your rubbish neatly and/or take it away!
Continuing on, we re-entered the Voie-Verte. These greenways are completely separated from traffic and lined with trees.
The path itself is most often compacted dirt, which is just fine. However after on there was loose and and gravel that made it tougher on little slick wheels.
Bridges cast you over flowing streams.
And quaint old buildings line the path. The sense of history is amazing and these structures are all kempt rather than run down.
The vegetation on the paths are also meticulously maintained. Hardly any overgrowth encroaches on the cyclist as we passed mile after mile of field and meadow, forest and vale.
Once in a while we crossed paths with a fellow cyclist or someone taking a stroll. always be ready with a bonjour, and listen carefully for the right way to say it - don't copy the aunties in Delifrance! At one point we passed a middle-aged couple picking wild berries from the side of the road. He had a small box full of them! Now this city slicker doesn't know what berries are safe, and has only picked strawberries on a farm, but since the locals were plucking, it must be good! With eyes peeled we soon spotted the lush berries.
Pluck, sniff, and taste...delicious! My first time and eating vine-ripened wild blackberries and I was hooked. Out came my ziplock bags, stowed for times such as this and in quick order we had a good sized portion. The bag would have filled quicker if we didn't keep popping them into our mouths!
As it was just past noon, we detoured into the next town looking for some hot lunch. We were not disappointed with a great local beer, kebab sandwich and hot chips! We shared the large portion so our stomachs would not be too full, and finished off the meal with fresh blackberries! Unfortunately we were too hungry to take photos, and were off again into the wooded paths.
Soon the way got a little more sandy and with more gravel, taking some effort for a short way. For safety we walked for about 50m.
Until finally we emerged and took a short break on a picnic table on the outskirts of a town.
We were making good time, so could afford another detour for a nice break into town. The medieval town planners always seemed to want to build a church on a hill, so the town centre spring up around that, resulting in cyclists always climbing to get into town for their Orangina and croissants!
Pleased and refreshed we headed out again. The Voie-Verte looked slightly different now, a little wetter with drainage and flowing water on either side!
As We had depleted our blackberry supply, we gladly stopped to pluck more. I didn't know picking wild berries was so fun and satisfying - in large part because it's free and so fresh!
We were on the home stretch, navigating by my GPS courses and Renata checking the signboard maps as we progressed.
Finally we made it into La Mele sur Sarthe. It took us a while to find Our B&B because it was a small house and not well signed. But it was absolutely beautifully decorated, aesthetically detailed and refreshingly modern. We showered up, washed and hung our clothes, synced our iPhones and Garmin and headed out for dinner. La Mele Sur Sarthe is charming and tiny but the dinner we had was first class. At the super price of 18 euro I had a smoked salmon salad, roast beef with cream pepper sauce, and a molten hocolate fondant with lemon sorbet. The roast beef looked lovingly homely, was supremely tender and the marbled fat had been rendered to perfection. This has inspired me to perfect a sous-vide roast beef as I have preparing mostly rib-eyes and short-rib cuts "en sous-vide" up till now.
Very full and very satisfied with our long day, delightful detours, and agricultural adventures we slowly walked back to our hotel. Lots of yelps accompanied Renata's quadriceps being massaged in preparation for the slightly tougher ride tomorrow!
Our GPS Track - Morning: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/587415542
Our GPS Track - Afternoon: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/587415680
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